Wednesday, November 25, 2015

Second Annual Thanksgiving Throwdown! This year's dish? Pumpkin Pie!

I was invited to "wrangle" pumpkin pies at the Second Annual Thanksgiving Throw Down on the Cleverley Radio Show last week. As official wrangler my job was to coordinate all entires and provide blind samples of 6 pies for three judges to decide which pie tasted best, was the most imaginative and finally was the best looking. As the official wrangler, I was not allowed to influence the judges by offering my opinions... which was tough, because I usually have pretty strong opinions! 
Chef Kiran Verma's Pumpkin Pie

The winner for best tasting pie was unanimous and I am happy to add that it was also my choice. Congratulations to Chef Kiran Verma of Kiran's Indian Restaurant! When it came down taste this was one of the best pumpkin pies I have ever put in my mouth. The crust was fresh, buttery and crisp and the filling was light and custardy with a diverse but not overpowering spice blend with subtle Indian nuances that left you wanting more. The good news is that Chef Kiran is making this pie available as part of her "Kiran's Thanksgiving at Home"  Make sure to read through the offerings here because even if you aren't looking to totally outsource your Thanksgiving meal, you can certainly add creative element's when it comes to sides and of course deserts. 
Tandoor Roasted Turkey
The Tandoor roasted turkey is another culinary feat featured in the Houston Chronicle last year. The recipe can be found here on an earlier post in my blog.  I have big Greek family, and one of the things we do well is cook. However, Kiran's pumpkin pie will be on our desert table this year. 
B & B Butcher's Pumpkin Pie
Now, on to the best looking pie! The award went to Ben Berg's B&B Butchers for their version of pie which included a surprise ingredient. There was a layer of artisanal bacon between the crust and the filling adding a savory slant to the flavor profile. Also incorporated into the pie was Dr. Pepper.. Yes, that is correct... Dr. Pepper. On top are more sweet and savory elements such as whipped cream, candied bacon bits, along with a drizzle of a Dr. Pepper based sauce.  

The pie is available as part of B&B's "Butcher Shop Thanksgiving Menu" which includes a plethora of other choices from turkey to prime rib and a melange of traditional sides and deserts. If you haven't been to B&B's yet to dine or to sample the the fare available at the Butcher shop, get there as fast as you can. You can thank me later. And don't forget to pick up some of New York's finest bagels, made right here in Houston at the Butcher shop. Tell Bob, John sent you! 
Lady Luck's Pumpkin Pie
Finally, the pie that won for most creative was submitted by Facebook Houston Foodie Friend member, chef and caterer Lauren Kelly of Lady Luck Catering. Lauren's pie had a distinct chocolate topping that set it apart from the others while it also delivered a traditional pumpkin flavor profile. I found the  addition of pecans to the filling to be quite pleasing. 
Pies to go from Lady Luck! 
You can order pies throughout the holiday season from Lady Luck Catering on line. Also, look for Lady Luck Catering on Facebook. 


Saturday, September 19, 2015

It's Fall, Did someone say Pumpkin Roll?

Tikaa Cone's Pumpkin Roll
You see them ready made in bakeries, grocery stores and even at Costco. But wouldn't it be great if you could whip one up yourself with ingredients you already have in your fridge and pantry? 

I ran across this recipe my friend Tikaa Cone published on her blog www.totallytikaa.com. I always call Tikaa the "Country" Martha Stewart because she has exquisite style with a very down home feel. Her family and home are straight out of a Southern Living magazine spread. Tikaa likes to keep things simple and that's what attracted me to try this recipe. I think it may take more than one try to perfect the technique, but it's not hard and there isn't a long list of ingredients to pull together. In interest of full disclosure Tikaa found the recipe on a friend's YouTube channel so if you would like to see step by step instructions go to Kristin Gehm's post. 


                                        Pumpkin Roll

                                         Ingredients for Cake 
                                 3 eggs
                                 2/3 cup 100% Pure Pumpkin
                                 1 cup Sugar
                                 1 teaspoon Baking Soda
                                 1/2 teaspoon Cinnamon (heaping) 
                                 3/4 cup Flour
                                 Powdered Sugar for dusting

                                      Ingredients for Filling 
                                8 ounces of Cream Cheese, softened 
                                2 tablespoons Butter, softened 
                                3/4 teaspoon Vanilla
                                1 cup Powdered Sugar 

Preheat over to 375F. 

Prepare a 10X15 jelly roll pan (cookie sheet with sides). Lightly grease the pan with Crisco and then line with a sheet of wax paper or parchment paper and then grease the paper as well.  I used non stick parchment and it worked best. 

In a stand mixer, beat three eggs together lightly. Add the pumpkin puree and mix until incorporated. Add sugar. In a small bowl whisk together baking soda, cinnamon, and flour. Blend the flour mixture with the other ingredients and beat until well combined on medium to medium high speed. 

Scrape batter into cookie sheet spreading it out evenly. Bake for 13-15 minutes until lightly brown and springy to the touch. While the cake is baking lay out a tea towel or kitchen towel and cover it liberally with a good dusting of powdered sugar. 

Remove Cake from oven and while still quite warm,  turn it over onto the sugar coated towel. Carefully remove wax paper. Fold the end of the towel over the cake and slowly roll it into a cylinder keeping it as tight as possible as you go.  Let the cake cool for at least an hour. You can store it in the fridge until you are sure it is no longer warm. 

Mix together cream cheese and butter until light and fluffy. Add vanilla and beat a bit longer. Carefully add the powdered sugar and beat until light and fluffy. 

When the cake is totally cool, carefully unroll it and spread frosting over entire cake, making sure to leave a small border around the edges. Carefully, roll it back up as tightly as possible so it maintains a circular shape. Sprinkle with additional sifted powdered sugar. 

You can serve immediately or chill first.  





Friday, April 24, 2015

Oxheart - A much anticipated experience leaves me wondering


There are times when great reviews coupled with an intense national buzz about a local restaurant makes us want to run out and see what all the excitement is about right in our own back yards. Of course it's never easy to actually get a table at such avant-garde eateries. And this my foodie friends is what spurred my acute interest in dining at Oxheart Restaurant in Houston's warehouse district. Chef Justin Yu has cooked in Chicago, Napa, Denmark, as well as Belgium but returned to Houston last year to open Oxheart. 

I found the building and interior, stark, retro and modern all at once – an inviting setting where the food can take center stage. I read that the menu was seasonal and that it changes more often that seasonally to showcase locally sourced ingredients. I joined a group of 5 friends who were all eager to try Oxheart. (6 is the largest party the restaurant can accommodate at one table.) We booked about a month in advance, which allowed for a good amount of anticipation to build. I checked the menu weekly to witness for myself how it might change over time, but it stayed exactly the same. 

There are two tasting menus to choose from, one of which is vegetarian. Both consist of six courses. You may also opt for a drinks pairing menu to accompany your meal. 
Dried beets soaked in tangerine juice, with kaffir lime, shiso, and mandarin peel 
Our first course was the dried beets soaked in tangerine juice, with kaffir lime, shiso and mandarin peel. It was evident that a great deal of thought and labor went into this plate, but in the end it didn't make an impression. I just don't see how some thinly sliced pickled beats draped over a few tangerine segments would taste much different. 

Slowly roasted and charred sunchokes brushed with honey, jasmine tea and salted cream
My favorite dish of the night came next, the slowly roasted and charred sunchokes brushed with honey, jasmine the and salted cream really were impressive. The texture and caramelization of sunchokes was outstanding. Combined with the sauces on the plate the taste was memorable and left me wanting more. 
Black Spanish radishes and a sofrito of dried shellfish, with steamed gulf crawfish and fragrant herbs 
Next up was the Black Spanish radishes and a sofrito of dried shellfish, with steamed gulf crawfish and fragrant herbs. Once again, it was evident that a lot of time went into this elaborate dish. But many of my fellow diners were left wondering whether it was worth it.  
Stew of preserved allium and 'indica' rice, with charred scallions
The fourth course was quite complex in its simplicity. My first reaction to the stew of preserved allium and 'indica' rice, with charred scallions was that again too much time was spent on something unremarkable but as I took in a second spoonful the flavors began to build and I thoroughly enjoyed my portion. 
Lightly smoked wild boar, with pork thailande, fermented mustards, and kohlrabi 
The final savory course was the lightly smoked wild boar with pork thailande, fermented mustards, and kohlrabi. The presentation was impressive however, I did not need to know that the wild boar was trapped in West Texas and that it had been fed a strict diet of acorns for the last 6 weeks of its life. The dish itself was adequate. However, I believe this dual treatment of pork missed the mark. 
Carrot mousse glazed in Greenway coffee, with sable breton and citrus
The dessert course was quite petite and pleasing to the eye. Great care was once again clearly employed in creating the small carrot mousse glazed in Greenway coffee, with sable breton and citrus. Unfortunately, the flavor was even less than subtle. 

Overall the meal fell quite short of my expectations. My adventurous dining companions resoundingly shared my sentiment. Which leads me back to how the anticipation built over time would have been hard to live up to. I must say that the service at Oxheart is beyond reproach. The staff is courteous, respectful and very knowledgeable and that is something to be very thankful for when it is such a rarity these days. 

Would I go back? Probably not for a long time and only if the seasonal menu piqued my interest. 





Fresh Ricotta - There is no substitute!

Fresh Ricotta
I recently set out on a quest to source fresh ricotta cheese in Houston, I am sad to report I was unsuccessful. I wanted the type of ricotta that you can get when you walk into any Italian market in New York, New Jersey or Philadelphia. The type of market I profoundly wish would open in Houston. I found prepackaged whole milk ricotta in local stores which would have worked, but I was really seeking an exceptional quality ricotta. I have not yet been to Houston Dairymaids, where I have been told I might find fresh ricotta. Instead I decided to make a bold culinary move (bold for me) and research how to make ricotta at home. I was pleasantly surprised as to how easy the process appeared. So, I began experimenting and what you see here is the result.

The active time involved is basically the amount of time it takes to measure 4 ingredients and bring them to a boil. I highly encourage you to try your hand at creating this creamy delight. I believe you will be very glad you did and I venture to say you'll never buy ricotta at the grocery store again.  

Ingredients

  • 4 cups whole milk 
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • ½ teaspoon sea salt
  • 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

Method



Bring milk, cream, and salt to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Remove from heat. Add vinegar and stir gently until mixture starts to curdle. Let stand 4 minutes.


Pour mixture into a fine-mesh sieve lined with 2-3 layers of cheesecloth set over a medium bowl. Let stand for at least 25 minutes. The longer it strains the thicker the cheese will become, I find that 1-2 hours will yield a very firm texture. 

Cover and chill cheese in the refrigerator until ready to use. 

Saturday, January 10, 2015

What to cook when it gets cold?



It’s been just about as cold as it gets during winter in Houston lately and that’s had me thinking about cooking comforting, uncomplicated, and relatively easy meals. This first one is a soup, comes together rather quickly and can be served within an hour from start to finish.

Potato Leek Soup

3 tablespoons olive oil (more if needed to cover bottom of your pot)
3 leeks*, white and light green parts only, cleaned well and finely sliced or chopped
3 cloves of garlic, peeled and left whole
1 large shallot finely sliced
½ cup white wine
Small bunch of fresh thyme tied together with kitchen string. (If you don’t have fresh a couple of teaspoons of dry will do)
1 bay leaf
3 lbs potatoes but into chunks (Yukon Gold or Russet)
6 cups low sodium chicken broth (more if necessary to cover potatoes)
1 teaspoon salt
½  teaspoon fresh ground pepper (white if you have it)
½ cup sour cream or crĆØme fraiche
½ cup heavy cream
Sour cream, chives or finely sliced green onions for garnish

Heat a heavy bottomed 4-5 quart pot (I prefer an enameled cast iron pot) over medium heat. Add olive oil, leeks, garlic and shallot and cook over medium heat until the vegetables have wilted and become translucent, but not browned. Add white wine to deglaze. 

Stir in thyme and bay leaf, salt, pepper and potatoes. Pour in the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Cover and continue to simmer until the potatoes are fork tender.

Remove the thyme and bay leaves. Let pot cool slightly and then puree using an immersion blender. Alternately, you can puree in a blender or food processor in batches. Pay attention not to overfill your container if you need to work in batches. Return to pot. If the mixture is too thick you may add more broth to bring it to a desired consistency. Stir in sour cream until it melts into the soup. Stir in cream. Adjust seasonings and serve. Garnish with a big dollop of sour cream, and minced chives or green onion.

* To clean leeks – Cut off the tops and bottoms of the leeks, then cut in half lengthwise. Rinse each half under running water making sure water gets to each layer and to remove any sand and grit between the leaves.

The second recipe requires more cooking time than it does prep time, but you can have this delicious meal on the table for dinner in just over an hour once you get it simmering.

My cousin Marcella Lolos shared this recipe with me years ago after she cooked it for dinner one night and I love it.

Marcella’s Hungarian Goulash

2 Tbs olive oil
2 Tb butter
3-4 lbs stew meat (cubed)
1 large onion chopped
3 garlic cloves minced
½ tsp dry mustard
3 tsp paprika
¾ cup ketchup
2 Tbs Worcestershire sauce
2 Tbs brown sugar
Salt and pepper to taste
2 cups water (or enough to cover meat)

Add olive oil and butter to a heavy bottomed 5-6 quart pot (I prefer enameled cast iron). Brown meat in batches over medium high heat until nicely caramelized. Reserve meat.

Add onions to pot on medium heat and stir until they become translucent and slightly caramelized. Add garlic and stir for one minute. Stir in dry mustard, paprika, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, and brown sugar. Return meat to pot. Add about a teaspoon of salt and 1/2 teaspoon of fresh ground pepper, then pour in enough water to cover meat by at least half an inch.  Bring to a simmer. Cover and continue simmering about an hour or until meat becomes tender and sauce reduces and begins to slightly thicken.  Serve over buttered noodles.

Friday, January 9, 2015

Aji Peruvian Cafe - The next best thing if you can't get to Machu Picchu


I was recently indoctrinated to the wonders of Peruvian cuisine when I was invited to an impromptu dinner by my commercial real estate broker and cousin, Gus Lagos. Gus knows a good thing when he sees it, so he was quick to invite me to Aji located off the beaten path in West Houston. 
Causitas
We were warmly greeted by co-owner Pilar Forkel upon our arrival. One thing Pilar does not lack is personality. She is a breath of fresh air and was eager to describe the national dishes of Peru. That evening I sampled causitas, mashed potatoes flavored three different ways and topped with Peruvian chicken salad. Each iteration was replete with it's own flavor and sauce. 

Picante de Mariscos
The Picante de Moriscos bursted with fresh flavors from the sea and was enrobed in a spicy cream sauce, served with rice and deftly fried yucca. 
Saltado de Carne
The Saltado de Carne, which is tenderloin stir fried with onions, garlic, tomatoes, and cilantro has left me wanting to have this dish again. The flavors are terrific. 

Tres Leches Cake
That evening we finished the meal with a most different version of the South American sensation, Tres Leches Cake. It was layered with a filling that was described as fruit based. I am somewhat of a Tres Leches aficionado and I have to say  I found it absolutely delicious. It's unusual to find a layered Tres Leches rendition and especially one so moist. 

It was inevitable that I had to make a return visit to Aji, so within about two weeks I was back, this time with my dear friend and fellow foodie Susan Poe in tow. 

One of the most refreshing drinks I've ever had is a Chicha Morada and it's made from purple corn. I had never heard of it, but it's such a surprising mix of flavors including hints of cinnamon and fruits. I have asked Pilar to please bottle and sell this elixir. You must try one when you visit! There are also many fresh Peruvian juice drinks on offer. 
Fried Pork Sandwich
I couldn't deny Susan the opportunity to try the Causitas, and they were just as good if not better than what I remembered from my first visit. But I was anxious to sink my teeth into one of the Peruvian sandwiches on the menu. I chose the fried pork. The pork is not breaded. It is simply deep fried and layered with thinly sliced sweet potato slices and salsa criolla. Trust me on this one. 
Spaghetti Huanciana
Susan opted for a very festively colored pasta dish, that was 

topped with the aforementioned beef saltado, so how bad could it be?! The sauce gets it's vibrant color from cilantro and a Huancaina sauce. I feared it would be pasty but it was smooth and silky with an unusual hint of evaporated milk that mellowed out the flavors. 

Chocolate Cake with dulce de leche filling
Once again desert was unavoidable. This apparent Peruvian specialty marries a dense chocolate layer cake with dulce de leche and a thick creamy chocolate frosting. If I had to do it again, I would have ordered a tall glass of cold milk to go with it.

All in all Aji Peruvian Cafe is a small local restaurant that brings something different to the neighborhood. There isn't a plethora of Peruvian restaurants in Houston and I welcome this newcomer whole heartedly. 

Ahi does not however come onto the scene without a touch of controversy. The chef and some three employees who are all quite happily turning out dish after dish to locals and Peruvians from all parts of town used to work at another much larger Peruvian restaurant called Latin Bites. Co-Owner of Latin Bites, Carlos Ramos has made accusations in an actual press release that Aji has allegedly copied many of Latin Bites' recipes. Having researched Peruvian cuisine in the last few weeks it is my opinion that both restaurants serve traditional Peruvian dishes and that's where the similarities end. I don't believe Aji's meager eight tables could possibly be a threat to the few other Peruvian restaurants in town.  

If you live in West Houston Aji Peruvian Cafe should be on your restaurants to try in 2015 list. Maybe they should be on your list even if you don't live nearby. 






Thursday, December 18, 2014

60 Degrees Mastercrafted – Pretense does not live here!

How disappointing is it when you arrive at a new restaurant and find that the atmosphere is far too pretentious? Unfortunately, I believe this is all too often the norm when we seek a fine dining experience. After all haute cuisine often goes hand in hand with haute atmosphere. The antithesis of this phenomenon is quite noticeable upon crossing the threshold into Austrian born Certified Master Chef Fritz Gitschner’s 60 Degrees Mastercrafted. 

The staff at 60 Degrees Mastercrafted are ever so hospitable, passionate and committed to making your dining experience something extraordinary.
This beautiful painting graces one of the walls as you enter the restaurant. 
The comfortable decor is modern Texana and it is obvious that great attention has been paid to every detail. This kind of inviting atmosphere does not create itself and even though the classically trained chef, doesn't classify his "ranch to table" outpost as fine dining, 60 Degrees delivers on every level, from ambiance to food.  Chef Fritz’s pedigree is quite impressive. Only 65 individuals hold the title of Certified Master Chef in the U.S. and Chef Fritz is one of them. 

With a menu that encompasses Chicken Schnitzel, Honey Brined Duck Breast, Gulf Seafood Cioppino along with several  treatments of Akaushi beef, my dining companion and fellow foodie Lavada Golden Varner and I quickly realized that one visit would clearly not be enough to get a complete taste of this restaurant. However, we did our best to sample what we could on this trip. 
Pork Belly grilled asian braised, satay sauce, kimchi vegetable slaw, lotus chips
We embarked on our culinary journey across Chef Fritz's menu with a tasting of several starters. I'd already had the pleasure of sampling the Tejas Chili, which has made its way onto my 'what I might want to have as a last meal" list. The tender Akaushi beef chunks melt in your mouth. Akashi beef in chili you ask? This is the only type of beef served at 60 Degrees Mastercrafted. 
Faux Dove grilled akaushi bacon wrapped chicken breast, stuffed with jack cheese and jalapenos, prickly pear barbecue sauce
Though I'm not usually a big fan, the glorification of pork belly continues across the dining scene in Houston. That being said, the pork belly here was impeccable. The asian treatment is truly inspirational and the satay sauce was a perfect accompaniment to the lean pork, all making for a perfect bite. 

The "Faux Dove" is another "do not miss". This bacon wrapped chicken breast stuffed with jack cheese and jalapeƱo, served with a smear of tasty thick barbecue sauce is nothing if not completely comforting. 

A couple of lighter starters also made their way on to our table. The Seafood Campenchana, bursting with fresh from the sea shrimp and lump crabmeat, delivered a clean bright taste.  


Salmon Sampler Smoked salmon, salmon pastrami, pickled red onion, capers, eggs, pretzel sticks

The Salmon Sampler was also noticeably fresh. Both the smoked, and pastrami salmon delivered on flavor along with a firm texture. The accompanying pickled onion, capers, and mild sauce played well with both types of salmon. 

A sampling of the starter menu might just be the best way to experience 60 Degrees being that there is a plethora of small and medium plates from which to choose. 
Our server Robert prepares to carve the main course - Cowboy Steak 30 oz, bone-in rib eye. 
Lavada and I however were "in it to win it", so we braved forward and ordered the Cowboy Steak for two, a 30 ounce bone in rib eye steak served with a chili corn sauce and avocado relish. 
Accoutrements for the Cowboy Steak 
The beef was juicy and melt in your mouth tender and would have stood well on it's own, however Chef Fritz being classically trained as he is, delivered three more sauces including a Bordelaise sauce, a Bernaise sauce and a melted butter steak sauce. 
Mixed Vegetables
Fork smashed potatoes with crispy onions
Let's not forget the side dishes. The fresh vegetables literally tasted as if they had just been harvested for our table and were well seasoned with fresh herbs. The fork mashed potatoes topped with shoestring fried onions were creamy and buttery. 

Slice of Heaven Cake
Finally, we tasted two desserts. The Slice of heaven cake, a recipe from Chef Fritz's mother has earned it's name for a reason. The angel food cake, meringue and homemade strawberry preserves with whipped cream and basil chips all come together as if to envelop your tastebuds in a creamy dream. 


Milk chocolate Hazelnut Crunch Mousse
And finally the Milk Chocolate Hazelnut Crunch Mousse  topped with a thick chocolate ganache and perfectly segmented Tahitian vanilla glazed orange supremes packed a wonderful and unexpected crunch that was so good, I made a mental note to find out whether I could order this as  as a full sized dessert for my birthday. 

By the end of our meal Lavada and I had to be wheeled to our cars by the cheerful staff and accommodating valets. Chef Fritz has quickly ascended the ranks in my book of most famous Austrians. 


60 Degrees Mastercrafted is a restaurant that leaves you wanting more. More of what you've already discovered is fabulous and the insatiable desire to try what you've not had yet. In the words of another famous Austrian... "I'll be back".